Carmel by-the-sea

A Perfect Getaway For All Seasons

After decades of visits to Carmel-by-the-Sea, we have developed an almost euphoric appreciation for this enchanting fairy-tale like village. We can't think of any small town destination that compares to this ultra charming getaway. Storybook architecture, world-class art galleries, upscale shopping, exceptional lodging options, and superb dining choices flourish. Oh, and the entire town is dog-friendly.

A little history: Carmel Mission (officially: Mission San Carlos Borromeo Del Rio Carmelo) was founded by Father Junipero Serra in 1771 and served as his residence and headquarters until his death in 1784. The town itself was established in the early 1900's by a bohemian group of authors and artists as a pastoral retreat, and remains a painters and writers haven today. Thankfully, strict zoning laws have preserved a quaint village atmosphere centered on the arts.

What to do and see:

The best and easiest way to see Carmel is to walk the downtown, residential areas and its glorious white beaches. Self guided walking tour brochures are available at the Visitor Center, open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day, on San Carlos St. between 5th and 6th. Don't miss seeing at least one of the original storybook structures, like the cute Hansel House or the Tuck Box (currently a tea room) designed by whimsical architect Hugh Comstock (www.tuckbox.com). A better bet is to sign up for the two-hour guided tour provided by Carmel Walking Tours. You'll really learn some enlightening insider history, celebrity tidbits, and frivolous fun stuff (www.carmelwalks.com). Dog lovers will not want to miss walks on the local beaches, where dogs are allowed to frolic leash-free, a rarity in California.

The Carmel Mission, one of California's most beautifully restored Catholic outposts, should be on your must-see list. Be sure to note Father Serra's burial site at the foot of the main altar, and the treasure-filled museum (www.carmelmission.org). You might want to consider attending protestant services at the historic Church of the Wayfarer-where pets are welcome (www.churchofthewayfarer.com). We understand the minister once remarked: "Why not? The pets can sleep through my sermon just like some parishioners."

During your getaway, try to attend one of Carmel's elite cultural events such as their annual Bach Festival usually held in July (www.bachfestival.org), a concert at the acoustically acclaimed Sunset Center Theater (www.sunsetcenter.org), or a production at the inviting Forest Theater, established in 1910 as the first outdoor theater west of the Mississippi (www.foresttheatercarmel.org). A tour of the unique Tor House and Hawk Tower, a National Historic Landmark built of stone by noted poet Robinson Jeffers over 90 years ago, is another interesting visit (www.torhouse.org). For exceptional wine sampling, be sure to visit Galante Vineyards' downtown tasting room in Piccadilly Park, owned by the great-grandson of Carmel's founder, J.F. Devendorf (www.galantevineyards.com). A short walk or longer hike through Point Lobos State Park, two miles south of town, is also a must excursion, and the views alone are worth it, especially along the cliffs (www.stateparks.com/point_lobos.html).

Where to shop:

When mentioning Carmel, shopping may be the first thing that comes to mind-and for good reason. Just strolling Ocean Avenue, the town's main street, will be retail paradise for you ultra-shoppers, but don't miss all the side streets, semi-hidden courtyards, and alleyways for an abundance of additional intriguing stores, boutiques, and art galleries. Carmel has over 80 galleries in town, but the Carmel Art Association, the area's oldest at 83 years young, features local artists and remains our personal favorite (www.carmelart.org). Since the town is heralded as one of the most pet-friendly in the nation, be sure to notice how many locals and visitors walk their dogs downtown and into some of the shops. Many stores offer water bowls for pets and even snacks. Dog and cat lovers should shop at Diggidy Dog, one of the most fun-filled pet gift boutiques we've encountered anywhere (www.diggidydogcarmel.com). For home accessories, furnishings, and an eclectic selection of contemporary gift items, be sure to drop into Carmel Bay Company, a landmark since 1972 (www.carmelbaycompany.com).

Where to stay and dine:

With over 40 choices of hotels, inns, and B&B's, there's plenty to choose from. For a complete list, visit the Carmel Innkeepers Association's website: www.stayincarmel.org. Here are a few personal favorites: La Playa Hotel, a historic hotel built in 1929, has long been one of our choices, with an ideal location equidistant between the beach and shopping. A yesteryear ambience, colorful gardens, and year-round heated pool are always alluring. Their Terrace Grill has long been a locals favorite for Sunday Brunch, al fresco dining, and special holiday meals (www.laplayahotel.com).

A recent stay at L'Auberge, a highly regarded four-diamond, 20-room inn boasting a European flair, was a memorable experience. Aubergine, their signature restaurant, is touted as one of the highest rated dining experiences in California. Be sure to check out their incredible 4,500-bottle wine cellar used for small dinner parties (www.laubergecarmel.com). The Hyatt Carmel Highlands (formerly the Highlands Inn), a four-diamond resort just a few minutes south of town, sits gloriously perched on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Their signature dining room, Pacific's Edge, will please the most discerning palates; the striking ambience and stunning vistas are added plusses. USA Today named it one of the top 10 view restaurants in the United States (www.highlandsinn.hyatt.com).

Not too surprisingly, Carmel has over 20 lodging properties and 29 restaurants that proudly advertise themselves as pet-friendly. The Cypress Inn, built in 1929, has been co-owned for over 20 years by famous singer, actress, and animal rights activist Doris Day, and may well be the most well-known inn featuring pet-friendly lodging in Northern California. Afternoon teas with your pets in their courtyard are very popular (www.cypress-inn.com).

Mission Ranch, owned by Clint Eastwood, is a very unique 21-room resort centered around an 1850's restored farmhouse with excellent tennis and fitness facilities. Their restaurant is one of our favorites for dining, especially on their outdoor heated patio with views of the grazing sheep and Point Lobos. We've actually seen Clint at the bar a few times watching sporting events, and you might spot him as well-but keep in mind, it's not the "Carmel thing" to bother him for an autograph. His old truck from the movie Bridges of Madison County and his Ford Crown Victoria from Dirty Harry can be viewed in the parking lot (www.missionranchcarmel.com). If you'd like a B&B tucked quietly away a few blocks from downtown, we suggest trying the classy and charming Carmel Country Inn (www.carmelcountryinn.com).

For more dining options, Casanova, originally built by Charlie Chaplin for one of his employee's cottages, is now considered by many as the town's most romantic restaurant. Call in advance if you'd like to sit at artist Vincent Van Gogh's personal table imported from his boarding house in France (www.casanovarestaurant.com). Cantinetta Luca offers award-winning, to-die-for Northern Italian cuisine (www.cantinettaluca.com); Forge In The Forest is the best outdoor casual dining in Carmel, featuring an American menu and great sandwiches (www.forgeintheforest.com); and the Hog's Breath Inn, originally opened and operated by Clint Eastwood (we understand he still owns the property, but not the business) offers multiple outdoor courtyard fireplaces which remain popular nighttime draws (www.hogsbreathinn.net).

For additional info on all things Carmel-by-the-Sea, visit www.carmelcalifornia.com and www.carmelcalifornia.org.