Local Souper Bowls
by RACHEL FILIPINAS | SOUP photos by BRENDA HARTSHORN
The weather isn’t getting any warmer yet, and we can’t think of anything better than hot soup on a cold day. Here are some of San Joaquin’s favorites.
Mikasa Sushi • Lathrop
Nabeyaki Udon/Soba Soup
For more information visit www.mikasasushilathrop.com
A hot-pot of ingredients, this traditional Japanese recipe is an entire meal in a bowl and a big favorite for customers during the winter season. Chef Harry Yu starts off with a special house broth and then adds slices of kamaboko (Japanese fish cake), chicken, and seasonal vegetables like Napa cabbage, zucchini, and yellow onion, and a choice of either the thick udon noodle or the thinner soba. After simmering, the soup is topped off with a poached egg, garnished with freshly chopped green onion, and served in an iron pot with a side of tempura shrimp.
Ever since Michael-David Vineyards matriarch Jeanne Phillips supplied the recipe over a decade ago, Phillips Farm Café’s chicken tortilla soup has become a staple of the restaurant. Her recipe is a variation on a classic. First, there’s the omission of black beans, which makes for a thinner, broth-based concoction. Next, fresh, ripe tomatoes are used instead of canned. Then the most notable modification: Fresh tortilla chips surrounding the rim of the bowl, as opposed to strips of grilled tortilla in the pot. As a final note, the soup is sprinkled with cilantro and topped with slices of avocado and grated cheese.
Tracy Thai • Tracy
Coconut Chicken Soup
It may be a melting pot of culinary traditions and ingredients from all around southeast Asia, but two things Thai cuisine always relies on are bold flavors and fresh ingredients. With its balance of sweet, spicy, and sour flavors, Tom Kha Gai (coconut chicken soup) is a quintessential Thai comfort food. Chef Thawin Thomngam starts off with a coconut milk soup base and then adds kaffir leaves, lemongrass, and slices of galangal root to simmer. Chicken and mushroom are dropped in, and for an extra kick of flavor, fresh cilantro and green onion are sprinkled on top.
Wine and Roses • Lodi
Kabocha Squash Cappuccino
For more information visit www.winerose.com
For chef Didier Gerbi, his source of inspiration was close to home. Drawing from the sweet carrot and squash soup recipes from the region between southern France and Italy, Gerbi concocted a savory take on cappuccino, this time trading in espresso for Japanese winter squash as the main ingredient. After it’s roasted and blended to perfection, kabocha makes for a rich, amber-colored soup, which is then poured into an oversize coffee cup and topped off with a whipped cream foam. A sprinkling of ground nutmeg and cubes of applewood smoked bacon finish off the meal.
Ernie’s on the Brick Walk • Stockton
Manila Clam Chowder
Chef Warren Ito makes sure to give as much careful consideration to this dish typically classified as an appetizer as he does to any of his main courses. With each bowl made to order, he starts off by making a roux (a flour-based mixture used to thicken soups)before pouring in clam juice. Yukon gold potatoes are sliced in, and fresh Manila clams shipped in from the Pacific Northwest provide a unique texture and ocean water saltiness to the creamy blend. Diced pancetta is added as a final touch. The end result: A smoother, velvety version of the hearty soup, one that’s become a signature dish at the restaurant and a favorite among customers.
Phillips Farm Café at Michael-David Vineyards • Lodi
Chicken Tortilla Soup
For more information visit www.lodivineyards.com
Ever since Michael-David Vineyards matriarch Jeanne Phillips supplied the recipe over a decade ago, Phillips Farm Café’s chicken tortilla soup has become a staple of the restaurant. Her recipe is a variation on a classic. First, there’s the omission of black beans, which makes for a thinner, broth-based concoction. Next, fresh, ripe tomatoes are used instead of canned. Then the most notable modification: Fresh tortilla chips surrounding the rim of the bowl, as opposed to strips of grilled tortilla in the pot. As a final note, the soup is sprinkled with cilantro and topped with slices of avocado and grated cheese.
Le Bistro • Stockton
French Onion Soup
For more information visit www.lebistrostockton.com
Though French cuisine prides itself on tradition, Le Bistro’s take on French onion soup strays just a bit from the classic, making it an instant Central Valley favorite. After slow cooking the onions to bring out their natural sweetness, chef Lance Hatcher adds in broth, spices, wine, and the “kicker”— an extra dash of sherry than most recipes call for, which gives the soup an extra pop and enhances the complex flavors of the caramelized onion base. Traditional gruyere is replaced with Emmenthaler cheese to give the soup its crustier topping, and house-made croutons and a touch of green parsley finish off the soup, which is served piping hot with a slice of French bread on top. [SJM]
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