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San Joaquin Magazine, The Magazine of the Central Valley.  Stockton, Tracy, Lodi, Manteca, Lathrop.
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Paragary’s Bar and Grill

Crab Cakes
by Tammy Hansen

The crab cake may be California’s answer to the East Coast clambake. With Dungeness crab at its peak through the holiday season, now is the time many home cooks give this much-loved party appetizer a first time whirl.

The difference between so-so and fabulous? The crab, of course, says Justice Anderson, head chef at Paragary’s Bar and Grill in Stockton.

Stay away from less expensive lump crab, he warns. A good crab cake contains a high percentage of fish, so get the best available.

“Definitely I would use Dungeness crab,” he says. “It’s the sweetest crab, the best crab you can get.” Next, be sure to wring most of the moisture from the crabmeat. Too much, and the crab cake will be mushy. Also, stay away from eggs as a binder because they detract from the purity of the crab flavor.

Texturally, “it should be almost like a meatball,” Anderson says. Beyond that, the crab cake is endlessly adaptable. Try red onion instead of white, cilantro instead of parsley, or add a splash of paprika. Serve with tartar sauce or aioli. Don’t, however, overburden the crab with too many other flavors.

“You don’t want to add too much to it,” he says. “You want that fresh crab flavor to shine through.”

Paragary’s Crab Cakes

2½ lbs.     Dungeness crabmeat
1½ cups   fresh breadcrumbs
1½ cups   mayonnaise
1 cup       onion, well diced
1 cup       celery, well diced
¼ cup      parsley, chopped
¼ cup      scallion, finely chopped
1½ tsp.    Old Bay seasoning
1/8 cup    Dijon mustard
1½ tsp.    Worcestershire sauce
zest of one lemon
salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper

Squeeze water from the crabmeat until well dried. Sauté onion and celery until tender and translucent. Cool, then combine with all other ingredients. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Form into patties and pan fry until golden and warmed through. Serve immediately with your favorite sauce.

Crab cakes may also be made, seared in a pan, and stored on a sheet pan in the refrigerator a day before serving. Reheat in a 350-degree oven for approximately 10 minutes. Serves 12-15.

Paragary’s Bar and Grill, 110 N. El Dorado St., Stockton, (209) 943-1110, www.stocktonparagarys.com