Big Sur

Big Moments, Big Vistas, Big Memories. Some places on this earth provide such special instances of memorable vistas and personal experiences, they remain forever etched in your remembrance vault. Big Sur is just such a place. Driving down the winding, cliffside engineering marvel called Highway 1, south of Carmel, provides some of the most dazzling rugged coastline anywhere. It's an area of stark contrasts: often barren rocky sea-cliffs lie next to flora-filled wilderness. Jetsetters, artists, writers, Bohemians, and hippies are frequent visitors and residents, while five-star, ultra-luxurious resorts are practically next door to rustic campgrounds. High-priced art competes with tie-dyed t-shirts for the most sales. Diverse weather often provides cold foggy mornings turning into clear warm afternoons. All these contrasts are the essence of Big Sur, where diversity, serenity, and spectacular vistas govern.

What to see and do:

On the way, be sure to stop at Bixby Bridge and Hurricane Point for panoramic vistas, and soon thereafter a number of premier sites await. At the top of our list is the short walk into Pfeiffer Beach, where nature-tunneled, rocky outcroppings are framed by the purple-hued sand. When light illuminates the tunnels, it's a picture-perfect moment. This U.S Forest Service beach is so popular and important to locals, no highway signage exists providing directions. Past signs have mysteriously disappeared at night! Be persistent, and ask directions-you'll find it.

Hikes to consider within Big Sur State Park are the two trails through regal coastal redwoods to 60-foot high Pfeiffer Falls and Valley View outlook. Be sure to keep a lookout for soaring California Condors, recently re-introduced to the region. Andrew Molera State Park has a two mile loop path to its usually blustery beach where the Big Sur River enters the sea and driftwood shelters shield visitors from the wind. It's often a contrast to tranquil Pfeiffer Beach. For more strenuous hikes/backpacking/camping information, visit parks.ca.gov. Opting for a horseback trail-ride to Molera Beach and back is also an equestrian lover's opportunity. (molerahorsebacktours.com)

Drop into the funky Henry Miller Library (he's the famous yet controversial author of Tropic of Cancer) for an event, concert, movie, or to browse book archives of Miller, Kerouac and other celebrated writers. (henrymiller.org) Try scheduling a visit to Esalen, Big Sur's eminent alternative education center, featuring a stunning coastal setting (don't miss the waterfall at the beach access), clothing optional hot springs, and an impressive variety of workshops. (esalen.org) Tour Point Sur Lighthouse, but allow a couple hours for a moderately tough uphill climb, tour, and return walk. (pointsur.org) Another favorite Big Sur past-time? Do nothing. One local mantra: "Just sit back, enjoy the quietude, and pretend you're reading a book."

Where to stay and dine:

Since there's no downtown Big Sur, shopping is minimal and spread out. Not to miss: Phoenix at Nepenthe, where the distinctive variety should intrigue most shoppers (phoenixshopbigsur.com); Local Color, in the Village Shops near Big Sur River Inn, offers locally crafted gifts and art (bigsurlocalcolor.com); Gallery at Ventana presents high-end artwork and jewelry, also by local artists. (www.ventanainn.com)

There are two highly regarded upscale resorts in the area, Ventana Inn and Post Ranch. We haven't experienced the Ranch but our stay at Ventana was so extraordinary, it's become one of our premier California lodging recommendations. Since the late '80s we've heard from friends proclaiming the marvelous virtues of Ventana, and it more than lived up to the hype. An exceptionally friendly and professional staff, stylishly decorated accommodations (most with wood-burning fireplaces, and some with ocean views), an ever-present serene atmosphere, and the glorious woodsy hillside setting are hallmarks. Sumptuous breakfasts, evening wine/appetizer receptions, high-speed internet, yoga classes, and daily guided hikes are welcome complimentary offerings. Other first-rate amenities include their unique dual Japanese baths located near two beautiful swimming pools (one is clothing-optional). Our evening dinner at their Restaurant at Ventana was a wonderful culinary experience, and on a warm clear day be sure to take lunch on their outdoor patio overlooking the Pacific coastline. If you're into luxuriating renewal therapies, the Spa at Ventana awaits to fulfill expectations. (ventanainn.com)

Since children under 18 are not allowed at Ventana, we love to recommend the Big Sur Lodge, located at the entrance to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The cottage-like accommodations have been tastefully refurbished, and the setting is perfect for families. Kids will love the seasonally heated pool, nearby soccer and softball fields, and all the hiking possibilities. Junior Ranger and campfire programs are also offered. A family-friendly restaurant serving tasty comfort food, an espresso café/ice cream parlor, gift shop, and general store are all also on the property. Major perk: Lodge guests have free admission to all local state parks. (bigsurlodge.com)

No trip to Big Sur should be without a dining experience at Nepenthe, where a spectacular cliff-side setting and fine vittles have been wowing patrons since 1949. (nepenthebigsur.com) Another popular dining spot is laid-back Big Sur Bakery, where creative dinner presentations are not surprising when you realize three Culinary Institute of America grads are at the helm. (bigsurbakery.com)