An enduring legacy at Heritage Oak

Tom Hoffman's elegant, mavericky touch with Zinfandel

The farm that Tom Hoffman, owner and winemaker of Heritage Oak Winery, took over from his father, Robert Hoffman, in 1981 principally supplied the giant-sized wineries with grapes, as do most Lodi vineyards, even today. As prices for winegrapes leveled out in 1990 and have stayed that way since, Hoffman decided to start his own winery with his wife, Carmela, established in December 2007. "Unless something drastic happens to increase the value of our fruit, our future will be as winemakers," says Hoffman, "not just as farmers. The challenging part is that I do everything around here-grow the grapes, make the wine, and sell and market them."

Although winery production has increased steadily, over 90 percent of what Hoffman grows still goes to the big wineries. This means that the 10 percent Hoffman keeps for himself is truly the cream of the crop, going into deftly balanced wines of considerable artistry, reflecting Mr. Hoffman's aesthetic side. (It is said that many a visitor to Heritage Oak is surprised to find that the man playing the classical piano in the corner of the tasting room is the vigneron himself.)

Hoffman's approach to winegrowing could also be described as mavericky: Eschewing the raw, blatant power of more popular wines of today, in favor of a quieter, more elegantly wrought, longer lived style. Translated into terms pertinent to Lodi Zinfandel: Red wines that are never unhinged by excess alcohol, obstinate tannin, overweening woodiness, or raisiny fruitiness. Rather, Hoffman produces more quietly composed Zinfandels: crisp at the edges, transparent in the center, focused almost purely on the wild berry qualities everyone loves in the grape.

If, lately, you've also found yourself gravitating to this style, any one of the following single vineyard Heritage Oak bottlings are sure to float your boat:

2009 Heritage Oak, Block 14 Lodi Zinfandel ($20)

Block 14 dispels the myth-as much as we all may like it-that head trained "bush" vines automatically mean superior quality Zin. Site trumps all, as evidenced by this wine sourced from a trellised vineyard, redolent of fresh raspberry, almost feathery in the nostrils, and revved up in the mouth by zesty acidity, gentle tannin, and only a modicum of wood, allowing the brightly fruited flavors to gush through. 150 cases made.

2009 Heritage Oak, Horn Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel ($24)

The Horn is a ridiculously old (90 to 100-plus years), robust, spur pruned planting located just around the corner from the winery; to which Hoffman applies his regimen of mostly neutral oak aging to showcase the emphatically concentrated blackberry/raspberry character inherent in the site. The feel is thick and full, yet the fruit vibrant, svelte, and juicy, in the house fashion. Only 125 cases of this definitive, eastside Lodi-style Zinfandel produced.

2009 Heritage Oak, Bartlam Lodi Zinfandel ($24)

Of all the single vineyard Heritage Oaks wines, this is the spice bomb of the bunch; not so much in the aromas as in the flavors as they evolve in the mouth: black pepper and allspice notes suffusing opaque berry flavors, unfolding in layers and touching every part of the palate with vigor and zest, while wrapping around it like a cozy blanket. Only 150 cases.

2009 Heritage Oak, Lowland Lodi Zinfandel ($20)

Hoffman speaks of this planting-head trained, dry farmed vines on deep, vigorous soils along the Mokelumne River-as his "problem child," yet the results of his labors (drastically trimming yields to bring fruit to maturation and balance) are immense. Exuberant black cherry-toned varietal fruit lights up the palate in graceful, cushiony waves despite full, compressed structuring; finishing with smoky, coffee ground spices that incite the senses further. Blended with some Petite Sirah.

Randy Caparoso is the multi-award winning sommelier/restaurateur and longtime wine journalist who also pens the blog for the Lodi Winegrape Commission's.

For more information and over two hundred Lodi wines, visit the Lodi Wine and Visitor Center, 2545 W. Turner Rd., Lodi, (209) 367-4727, www.lodiwine.com