San Luis Obispo and Avila Beach

Discovering new getaway gems

For decades we've bypassed San Luis Obispo, heading south to other vacation destinations. Friends raved about SLO (San Luis Obispo's nickname) and its closest oceanfront town, Avila Beach, and encouraged us to check 'em out-and they were right. There are plenty of unique things to do in this bucolic area, though doing them SLO-ly seems to be the unwritten rule. With less than 50,000 population, this appealing college town has been proclaimed one of America's "best places to live," and a Gallup poll recently named it our country's "Happiest City."

Nearby Avila Beach and joined-at-the-hip Port San Luis were once integral parts of the West Coast's largest petroleum shipping harbors. Around 12 years ago, UNOCAL was required to spend millions to clean up the beaches and downtown. All the streets and buildings affected by oil leakage were removed, and a new and beautiful beach-town has risen from the petrol-sludge. Avila Beach has now become the perfect picture-postcard of how a cozy California beach community should look and feel.

Our curiosity was really piqued by SLO's "Happiest City" title. How was it determined? What made it so "happy?" Would we able to pick up the "happy vibe" on our visit? Before our departure, we learned the pollsters reached out to millions of U.S. participants with a wide range of questions. Some of the reasons that SLO residents gave for being so happy: No long, traffic-congested commutes with many folks working from home; a sense of community and knowing your neighbors is an important local mindset; and a number of recreation parks and open space preserves have been established within the city.

What to see and do

San Luis Obispo: Strolling along the charming downtown walkways is a must (www.downtownslo.com), and don't miss touring the beautifully restored Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, the fifth Mission built, established by Father Junipero Serra (www.missionsanluisobispo.org). History and art aficionados will enjoy a visit to the local History Center, located in the town's first library built in 1904 (www.historycenterslo.org), and the more modern SLO Museum of Art across the street (www.sloartcenter.org). All three of the above are located on the classily designed and maintained Mission Plaza and offer complimentary admission.

In town on a Thursday? Visit the four-block Main Street Farmers' Market, every Thursday night, all year long. It's the city's signature event resembling a huge community block party (www.slocountyfarmers.org). Do a self-guided walking tour of the downtown with many notable sites and buildings, and check out mind-boggling Bubble Gum Alley, a tongue-in-cheek monument to pranksters. Drive through the picturesque California Polytechnic State University (aka Cal Poly) campus, which brings the city a youthful vigor (www.calpoly.edu). Hike or bike any of the city's 25 miles of scenic trails through a kaleidoscope of different landscapes. For more information on the above, plus coming events like their annual Film Festival and all things SLO, check out www.visitslo.com.

Avila Beach: Soaking up the beachfront ambience as you wander through the quaint and sparkling new waterfront promenade, cafes, and shops is number one on our list. Strolling Avila Pier and along their pristine dog-friendly beaches is another must (www.avilabeachpier.com).

Try a rather strenuous hike or take the trolley up to the Point San Luis Lighthouse, when open, to one of the most magnificent lighthouse settings and panoramic vistas on the Pacific coast (www.sanluislighthouse.org). Do some ocean kayaking and explore the majestic cliffside arches and caves-our kayaking highlight: for nearly an hour harbor seals surrounded our kayaks checking us out, and a few breaching dolphins passed nearby (www.slocoastkayaks.com). Hike the easy cave trail above town to an imposing grotto high above the ocean, and then head to nearby Pirate's Cove (caution: requires a short rope-repel down to the clothing-optional beach), or walk/ bike the scenic all-paved Bob Jones Trail along San Luis Creek which will someday (soon, we hope) connect to nearby SLO proper (www.visitavilabeach.com).

Drop by Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards to taste their highly regarded apple-based wines (www.kelseywine.com). Practically next-door, stop in at See Canyon Fruit Ranch, home to 117 year-old apple orchards for a step back in time and scrumptious apples during harvest (www.seecanyonfruitranch.blogspot.com). Young children with you? Then don't miss the small aquarium at Avila Beach Sea Life Center (www.sealifecenter.org).

Where to stay/dine

San Luis Obispo: The one-of-a-kind Apple Farm Inn has been popular for dining and lodging for years. Each room is distinctively different, but all have a classic Victorian look and many have fireplaces. We've never seen hotel hallways so completely furnished with showroom quality displays and knick-knacks. Complimentary wine and hors d'oeuvres, homemade cookies, and apple cider are served daily. Dining is American comfort food with an emphasis on "everything apple." Be sure to try their mouth-watering apple dumplings (www.applefarm.com). The Madonna Inn and Spa, the most famous theme-room hotel in California, opened in 1958, and recent additions include an infinity pool, waterfall, and day spa. Virtual tours of all their impressive theme rooms are available on the website. Trademarks include live entertainment five nights a week, the Gold Rush Steak House renowned for their prime beef, and the Copper Café, which offers upscale coffee shop fare and yummy baked goods (www.madonnainn.com). The Quality Suites is our most pleasant surprise. Recognized as one of the chain's best properties, the staff is exceptional, accommodations are delightful, and a complimentary DVD library, cooked-to-order breakfasts, and evening wine/beer/snack time are welcome plusses (www.qualitysuitesslo.com).

Our favorite SLO restaurants: Ciopinot is a cleverly-titled newer restaurant that features exceptional cioppino, an outstanding wine list highlighting Pinot Noirs, and the best crab cakes this side of Baltimore (www.ciopinotrestaurant.com). Café Roma, located on history-filled Railroad Square, is a family-operated restaurant that's been serving homestyle Italian recipes for over 30 years. This locals fave also has a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list and classic Tuscan ambience (www.caferomaslo.com). Novo offers al fresco dining at its best overlooking San Luis Creek and features global fusion cuisine from Brazil, Asia, and the Mediterranean (www.novorestaurant.com); F.McLintocks Saloon is a popular hangout serving barbecue capable of winning any rib cook-off (www.mclintocks.com); and Sextant Winery Café, just a stone's throw out of town in Edna Valley, has creative sandwiches and award-winning wine tasting-be sure to check out the classic Old Edna Guest House out back (www.sextantwines.com; www.oldedna.com). Starbucks eat-your-heart-out because the most well-liked coffee house in town is the locally-owned, super hip Blackhorse Espresso and Bakery (www.blackhorsecoffee.com).

Avila Beach: For over 100 years, the famous hot springs at Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort have been a destination for anyone believing in the curative powers of sulfur-based mineral water. Each room has a spa on the deck, some with regular H2O and others with mineral water. Consider staying in the upscale West Meadow Suite as a special treat. Dinners in their Gardens of Avila restaurant are exceptional, and additional hillside hot tubs are unmatchable. Hike up the Sycamore trail for wonderful hilltop vistas (www.sycamoresprings.com). The Avila Village Inn is a beautiful craftsman-style property perfect for a golf or tennis vacation, with same ownership as the nearby championship course, Avila Beach Golf Resort. Complimentary usage of the Avila Bay Club, a beautiful tennis, swim, and health facility next door is available (www.avilavillageinn.com). The Avila Lighthouse Suites are the best location if you want to be on the beach (www.avilalighthousesuites.com).

Avila/Port San Luis restaurant picks: Olde Port Inn features the freshest of seafood on historic Harford Pier, and incredible ocean, harbor, and cliffside vistas. If dining during light hours, sit at a table with custom-made window tops for sea-life viewing below (www.oldeportinn.com). The Grill at Avila Beach Golf Resort is a perfect spot to lunch or sup at the area's most popular golf venue, scenically located in an oak-lined valley and along a tidal estuary (www.avilabeachresort.com). Avila Grocery and Deli, opened in 1920, has the best sandwiches and friendliest service in town (www.avilagrocery.com). The beachfront Custom House, opened in 1975 and beautifully rebuilt in 2001, serves their menu all day and is also home to Mr. Rick's Nightclub, a legendary hotspot featuring DJs and live music (www.oldcustomhouse.com; www.mrricks.com).

And oh yes, we definitely picked up on a relaxed and happy SLO vibe. Bottom line: Both towns are amazingly vibrant places to vacation, while maintaining a breath-of-fresh-air sense of tranquility.

For more information about the region: www.winecoastcountry.com