Destination Kauai
Assaulted by a swift onslaught of shivers, I emerge from the icy lagoon. Whose idea was this again, I ask myself, before identifying the culprit-my meteorologist husband, who is braving the sub-zero temps with a casual backstroke and a zeal I fail to muster. He beckons to me from behind a 500-foot curtain of water cascading down the moss-blanketed mountain we trekked seven miles through unmarked jungle and muddy damp to see. Egged on by the catcalls of locals sunning themselves like lazy geckos, and giving no indication that I once swam competitively, I slap at the water and melt into the warming fold of my husband's giddy embrace. Due to either numbness or his sweet, encouraging pecks, I no longer feel the cold. In fact, it's suddenly kind of hot.
And that's Kauai-an atoll of many moods enveloped in clouds of mist and an effusion of easy island cheer that in moments can transport you from where you think you are to another place entirely.
The most verdant of all the Hawaiian Islands, Kauai is 82 miles of indigenous calm that has, unlike the more popular oases of Oahu and Maui, avoided the influence of tiki-tacky tourism. While you can still find statuettes of be-bopping hula girls for the dashboard on Kauai (thank goodness), travelers come to this moony Pacific islet for a more authentic island experience, which they find in a quartet of distinctively different but equally spectacular shorelines.
ITINERARY 1: THE NORTH SHORE
String up a hammock, you're on the North Shore of Kauai. This dreamy outpost is Eden on the Garden Island. Unhurried surf alcoves, golden beaches, and rustic wilds marked by spidery trees, spiny overgrowth, and shimmering jewel-toned seas frame this picture-perfect testament to idyllic island life, one that resembles a quiet morning in Southeast Asia, an elegant dusk in French Indochina and, at all other times, the most beautiful hippie commune you've ever seen.Stay: Enjoy the secluded and airy accommodation of Bird Song Cottage, where not only will you get what's advertised (a rousing chorus of chirps at 6 a.m.), but a brilliant way to economize with a kitchen for cooking. And that outdoor shower? Very Balinese. www.kauaibirdsongcottage.com
Shoestring activities: Ride the morning waves at Hanalei Beach; gorge on gargantuan island produce and a world-famous frosty at Banana Joe's Fruit Stand; spot monk seals and seabirds from the Kilauea Point Lighthouse; snorkel at Secret Beach (the "secret" is out, by the way); marvel at the sunset from the grassy knoll to the right of the Princeville Hotel, famed for its "Bali Hai" view; and count your blessings at the Wai'oli Hui'ia Church and Mission House.
Splurge on: Shopping and dining in Hanalei, home to Wishing Well Shaved Ice (look for the colorful van and the beach bums), the minty Mojitos at Barracuda, and artsy curios at Yellowfish Trading Company. Or, hop a catamaran for a sunset cruise to the spectacular Na Pail Coast (the best touring outfits are not usually advertised, so ask a local for the most reputable). Those with stamina and skill should opt for a kayak tour of this rugged coastline that allows you to explore otherwise inaccessible sea caves.
Secret: Queen's Bath, a large lava-rock swimming hole pounded by surges of waves that crash over the pool's protective reef of rocks. This hidden spot is located about a mile from the Princeville Hotel at the end of Punahele Road. Watch for the throngs of locals who will unknowingly lead the way at sundown.
ITINIERARY 2: THE EASTSIDE
Kauai's centrally located "Coconut Coast" is an excellent home base from which to explore all sides of Kauai. But even this so-called "hub" is low-key. By urban-dwelling standards, the traffic is next to nothing, but to locals, it may as well by 5 p.m. on the Bay Bridge. This stretch boasts plenty of economical lodging, including one property of legit notoriety, sweeping beaches, and one of the island's best-kept secrets.Stay: Although the Eastside's most famous resort is the iconic but now shuttered Coco Palms, which was prominently featured in the Elvis Presley film Blue Hawaii, the Kauai Sands Hotel offers a similar throwback vibe and a better beachfront address. www.kauaisandshotel.com
Shoestring activities: Bite into a juicy cheeseburger at Duane's Ono Char Burger; sip coffee and chat up locals at Java Kai; kayak the Wailua River; hike the trail up to the Sleeping Giant; trek through the Fern Grotto; cycle along Kealia Beach; picnic at Lydgate Beach Park; get a traditional lomilomi massage at Angeline's Mu'olaulani; and shop for knick-knacks at the Tin Can Mailman.
Splurge on: Fresh sushi at Kintaro; and a 4WD off-road introduction to big-screen Kauai. Conducted by Hawaii Movie Tours, this surprisingly good film tour takes you to the site of Kauai's most famous movie backdrops.
Secret: Kauai's Hindu Monastery is absolutely magical. Occupying 458 acres, this spiritual center is home to 20 monks, gorgeous temples, and lush upland rainforest. Tours are available.
ITINERARY 3: THE SOUTH SHORE
The South Shore of Kauai offers the island's biggest dose of "resort" vibe. Here the air is heavy with aromatics and blooming exotics. It's gorgeous, and so are the luxury hotels, many of which are windowed top-to-bottom with glass to let in the majestic views of the azure seas just steps away. The South Shore is the most outright touristy area of Kauai, but with a bent of surprise.Stay: Honeymooners who can swing it should check into the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, if for no other reason than the panoramas. Luxuriant and open-aired, this classic resort is authentic on a grand scale (think Gilligan's Island imagined by Richard Branson). The respite is exceptional to a level reached only in dreams. www.kauai.hyatt.com
Shoestring activities: Take a senses-awakening tour of the immaculately-maintained National Tropical Botanical Garden; beachcomb at Po'ipu Beach Park; play the links at Kukuiolono Golf Course; cliff-dive at Makawehi Point; and boogie board at Shipwreck Beach.
Splurge on: The spectacular Grand Hyatt Kauai Luau; a three-tank scuba dive to Ni'ihau; a day of indulgence at Anara Spa; and an evening of jazz and cocktails at the Grand Hyatt's Stevenson's Library lounge, home to the stogie and cognac set.
Secret: If you miss the Samoan fire show at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Luau, catch the Polynesian Dance Show, a no-cost mini version at the PoÔipu Shopping Center, where you can also pick up a handcrafted grass skirt to take the show on the road back home.
ITINERARY 4: THE WESTSIDE
Kauai's underappreciated Westside remains under the radar for its rugged, frontier-like appearance, which is earthy, dusty and unpolished. But what this region lacks in fertile landscape, it makes up for in an expanse of ecological freedom that you won't find anywhere else on Kauai. At sunset the colors reflect a melting bowl of sherbet.Stay: Nestled smack dab in the middle of a palm-fringed coconut grove, the small collective of homes that make up Waimea Plantation Cottages embody the spirit of colonial Hawaii. Simplicity, privacy, and proximity to the best of the Westside are the hallmarks of this sublime and wholly unexpected hideaway. www.waimea-plantation.com
Shoestring activities: Stroll along the sands of Kekaha at sunset; tour the area's deserted plantation-era towns; watch the southern horizon expand from massive Waimea Canyon; and backpack to the Alaka'i Swamp.
Splurge on: An island tour by open-air chopper through Inter-Island Helicopter. Make no mistake, wind whipping through your hair and mist caressing your face is truly the best way to experience Kauai. Even better, if you've got the guts and the bucks, is to take an ultra-light flying lesson from Birds In Paradise at Salt Beach State Park. One lesson will take you around the island.
Secret: The artist's colony of Hanapepe-Kauai's answer to the "Old West"-is truly unique. Don't miss the Hanapepe Art Walk, where every Friday night a slew of unpretentious art galleries open up their wooded storefronts while locals serve up fresh fish tacos and shaved ice from makeshift stands.
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