The Alder Bistro

Thirty Years of Gourmet Food

by JAMIE MENAKER | Photos by DAN HOOD

Think of your most recent visit to a gourmet market, a place like Podesto’s or Whole Foods that carries organic finds, unique flavors, and the highest quality meats and cheeses. Now put together an entire menu based around these specialty items, and you’ve got an idea of the fare at Stockton’s Alder Bistro and Catering Company.

This description isn’t surprising given that the Alder originally began as Alder Market, Stockton’s only specialty grocer in the early 1980’s. Owner Larry Ruhstaller had worked at the Oakville Grocery and other culinary resources in San Francisco, and wanted to bring these same foods to the Central Valley. Originally from Stockton, Larry made his way back to San Joaquin with three other business partners, and the Alder was born: a specialty market and charcuterie, with sausages from San Francisco and fresh croissants trucked in every morning.

“These are all foods that we know now,” says Kitty Ruhstaller, Larry’s wife and now co-owner of the Alder. “But back then, you couldn’t even find a croissant anywhere in Stockton.”

As more grocers opened with the same type of specialty selection, the business evolved into its modern day incarnation. First, a wine bar and tastings were added at the market, then the restaurant opened for lunch only. Specialty dinners and a Meet the Winemaker series came next, until in 2005 the Alder removed everything that was originally part of the market and reopened as a fine eatery. Kitty and Larry met while working together in the early years at the Alder, and, as they say, the rest is history.

“I went to UC Davis, and studied organic gardening,” says Kitty. “We made our own cheese and yogurt, raised chickens, and our own bees and honey. I was a young mom in college, and I became really interested in good foods, and putting those together to please my kids, while also competing with all the junk food out there. Larry and I have the same ideas about food, and it was just a great match.”

With both Ruhstallers’ background in gourmet foods, the Alder Bistro’s menu represents an impressive flavor palate, in both tapas-style small plates and a list of entrees. Two perfect portabella mushrooms arrive to the table topped with fontina cheese, pancetta, and a balsamic glaze. A salad of mixed greens with Danish blue cheese, dried cranberries, waldernuts, and fresh apple slices is curiously tossed in a maple dressing, a flavor we’ve never tasted on salad and can’t help but wonder why no one else seems to have tapped this particular culinary secret.

Pan seared prawns in a light but creamy curry butter are melt-in-your-mouth good atop a spinach risotto and garnished with cilantro, and the half-pound Alder Burger is a ground beef blend from well-known Stockton butcher Harold Van Airsdale at Podesto’s Market in Lincoln Center.

“All of us together come up with the food menu,” says Kitty. “I come up with some of the ideas, while Larry and our executive chef, Adam Richards, are really the ones that make them happen.”

After thirty years of the Alder, there’s not a thing that’s old-fashioned about this eatery. Each night of the week brings a different twist: half price Tuesday, price fixed menu Wednesday, eat local Thursday, appetizer Friday when the Alder introduces new foods on the menu as small dishes, and Basque dinner Saturday. The Alder is also just as well-known for its catering company, taking this year’s title for Best Caterer in our “Best of San Joaquin” reader poll.  Alder Products, a spin-off company manned by the Ruhstallers’ daughter, Vanessa, sells the restaurant’s salad dressings and seasoned salt at local grocery stores.

“We’re passionate for food, or else we wouldn’t be in the industry. You’ve just got to be willing to evolve with it,” says Kitty.

Alder Bistro and Catering Company, 151 W. Alder St. (on the Miracle Mile), Stockton, (209) 943-1921, www.aldermarket.com